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District restaurants provide array of tasty treats

A guide to balancing atmosphere and taste for the time-crunched student.

By Connor Elfrink

Published March 5, 2010

In the contemporary cyber world of iPads and digital notebooks, "apps" has forged a new electro-meaning. Appetizers can be traced back to first century Rome when the upper class was served eggs and fruit as a part of a three-course meal. No longer relegated to the dapper and divine members of society, these tiny-tasty-treats serve double duty as possible precursors to meals and worthy companions to alcoholic endeavors.

My father, the penny-pinching baby boomer, always forbade the additional expense of appetizers on the family dinner ticket. I now feel the itch to rebel against his tyrannous rule and slipped downtown during a break from classes to sample The District's delights (in less than $5 range).

The Heidelberg Restaurant
410 S. Ninth St.

Under the ambiance of the dim lights illuminating MU folklore photos, a neighboring booth of students debated the alleged awesomeness of their fall scheduling. "Fridays off," one student claimed. A sea of faculty members gathered to savor precious lunch break minutes.

My nose soon greeted a glowing platter. Below me sat thick spud rounds smothered in white cheese, doused with bacon bits, chives and thin strips of ham. The Heildelberg-ian Club Skins can be dissected with the prong ends of a fork; however, the finger pluckin' approach lends to a more creative and enjoyable bite.

The 'Berg's array of classic Americana food is comparable to the menu at Applebee's, while the atmosphere is reminiscent of the "Cheers" regulars.

The verdict: best eavesdropping spot

The Underground Café
111 S. Ninth St.

"All the lonely people, where do they all come from?"

McCartney's classic croon beamed from the walls as I teethed into one of the nine comfortably warm pita slices and prepared to push into a mound of hummus. Sprawled on a dark leather love seat, a woman read as her shoes lie unattended on the floor. I pretended to focus on my platter.

A life-size Santa Claus statue stared in my direction, his face glowing from the icicle lights wrapped around ceiling pipes. The coffee house formerly know as the Cherry Street Artisan, now appropriately pinned as the Underground Café had a sedated vibe great for mid-day mind break. At $4.49, the appetizer packs the punch of a sandwich and rests peacefully in the stomach with the tranquility of coy fish.

The Underground is a great spot for a relaxing afternoon with appetizer options that won't leave you with greasy fingers.

The verdict: best bohemian nap spot

Addison's
709 Cherry St.

My bulbous backpack got caught as I slid through the double-glass doors. I scanned about the room. Most tables were set for large parties, napkins pre-rolled. I attempted to quietly unzip my bag and cautiously take out my laptop. Is this any place for a student? I stopped on the walls, lined with artwork of former bartender David Spear. The paintings depict the hectic pace of restaurant work.

I took comfort in the slow afternoon air as my pinch of sweet potato chips pierce the barbecue horseradish dip. A slight sugary crunch and zingy tang say hello to my taste buds.

The exotic combinations, such as the lobster ravioli and goat cheese quesadilla, made me consider snapping my fingers upward and demanding fruit and eggs. Velvet robe aside, I felt royal. And though the menu contains pricey items, more modest alternatives are available.

The verdict: best spot for the cheapskate with aristocratic taste

Overall winner: The Heidelberg

Considering price options (during Happy Hour, apps are 2-for-1) and the everyday watering hole atmosphere, The 'Berg can't be beaten in the appetizer category.