Breaking down Columbia's top breakfast joints

MOVE visits three local breakfast stops and discovers both the joy of the boiled bagel and the glory of the omelet.

By Katie Davis

Published March 10, 2009

In "Poor Richard's Almanac," Ben Franklin's manual for perfect living, he wrote that he'd, "Rather go to bed supperless, than run in debt for a Breakfast." Whether or not this is everyone's opinion, it is hard to deny the oft-publicized benefits that come with a morning meal -- a full stomach, boosted energy and renewed brainpower. And one can't underestimate the importance of satisfied taste buds.
For sleep-deprived, penny-pinching college students or working folk, leisurely breakfasts might not be a daily reality. But that doesn't mean such hardworking souls must miss out on Columbia's greatest morning hotspots. To help out those longing for a breakfast worthy of their time and money, I investigated three local restaurants.

First stop: Ernie's Café and Steakhouse (1005 E. Walnut St.)

Ernie's sits near the corner of Walnut and Tenth streets, welcoming locals, college students and tourists alike with its large sign and outdoor seating. After my friends and I found a seat, we started eyeing the menu. Admittedly, I unfailingly drift toward French toast whenever I go out for breakfast, and this instinct did not fail me at Ernie's as I ordered the homemade French toast, along with hash browns. And, because I had heard that Ernie's veggie sausage was nearly identical to its actual sausage, I ordered it along with my toast. The sausage might not have been exactly like its meat counterpart, but it was excellent and, of course, so was the homemade, powdered sugar-topped toast. One of my friends ordered a customized omelet with ham and different veggies and seemed pretty pleased. My sugar-loving friend ordered a Belgian waffle with syrup, and while this friend probably appreciates anything with a few ounces of sugar on top of it, she actually gave her approval to the waffles themselves. Overall, the staff was attentive but still laid-back -- refilling our glasses but not rushing us to order. To top it off, the owner is a huge Dick Tracy fan, so pictures of the animated detective grace a few of the walls, as well as Ernie's menus.

Second stop: B & B Bagel Company (124 E. Nifong Blvd.)

To be completely honest, I am not a bagel aficionado. While I like to eat an occasional bagel sandwich or a dessert-like chocolate chip one from time to time, I probably would not know the differences between a true bagel and a pseudo one. That's where B & B Bagel Company steps in. Brad Newkirk, a true bagel purist, started B & B with the intent of selling delicious, homemade bagels that were both boiled and baked, not simply oven-steamed as many are today. Accordingly, Newkirk gave his shop the motto, "If it's not boiled, it's not a bagel!" and set to work. I visited B & B on a Saturday and ordered a toasted cranberry-walnut bagel with cream cheese and coffee. It was satisfying, to say the least. While consuming this morning treat, I purposefully gave mind to Newkirk's philosophy, seeing if I could distinguish between this bagel and my usual imposter choice. Once again, I am probably not the best person to distinguish between true and false bagels, but the difference was there. The process of boiling and then baking a bagel results in a product that has both a chewy interior and a harder crust. B & B's cranberry-walnut version passed the test and successfully exemplified what Newkirk believes is a true bagel.

Third stop: Café Berlin (21 N. Providence Road)

I used to believe a large, well-prepared breakfast required gallons of grease. Thanks to the wisdom of some helpful friends with culinary and nutrition skills, I was able to overcome my breakfast misconceptions. Still, if I had not discovered the true greatness of veggie wraps, fresh fruit and granola at an earlier date, I hope someone would have brought me to Café Berlin. They serve a predominantly breakfast-filled menu with items such as a Spanish omelet, Mediterranean hummus and eggs, and even tofu scrambles from open to close. Upon visiting the inconspicuous blue restaurant, I opted for a veggie and egg combination with toast and a tall glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. The meal was impressive. A nice, casually dressed server brought out my food and, to my surprise, it filled the plate. This does not tend to happen in most places nowadays, especially breakfast joints. Generally, I expect two-thirds or less of my plate to be covered by scattered eggs, toast or whatever else I order. But this dish at Café Berlin included a large portion of two scrambled eggs with grilled (yes, grilled) vegetables on top. It also came with baked potato wedges and two slices of wheat toast. Plus, Café Berlin's staff serves fresh juices on a daily basis -- thus, my OJ was divine. My friend ordered the cafe's homemade granola and yogurt combination. Her granola was filled with dried fruits and nuts, and it included fresh fruit on the side. The restaurant also offers lunch items, as well as a great kids (or, "not just for, kids") menu all day. I feel it is my duty to issue a warning: After dining at Café Berlin, regular grease-guzzlers will likely experience a change of heart and stomach.

Winner: Café Berlin

While all three of these breakfast nooks provide delectable dining options from sunrise to mid-afternoon, Café Berlin's variety is what makes it sparkle. It's one of those unique restaurants where the meals and staff members great, and the entire atmosphere has character. This is due in part to the restaurant's connections with local farmers, businesses and even artists. Many Columbia artists display wall paintings or collages throughout the store, creating a local art gallery within the cafe itself. As if all of this wasn't enough to satisfy its guests, Café Berlin also provides free Wi-Fi for those with hectic work and school schedules (or for those inseparably attached to their social networking sites). Simply put, Café Berlin is a must-stop for any person who desires a great breakfast in Columbia.